Protecting the Carbon from scratching

Has anyone come up with a good way to protect the base of the CGT deck? I have a new one without a scratch and would love to keep it that way. Someone know of a strong adhesive film that can applied?

 

It's relatively easy to instal and work great.
3M Scotchgard Clear Bra Paint Protection Bulk Film Roll 12-by-60-inches

 

I haven't received my CGT yet but it should be here by Wednesday next week. However, I got this from Amazon and will be applying it to both the top and underside of the deck prior to riding it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004...1481079446&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

 

I plan to use a good synthetic automotive paint sealer, but it will get scratched. That clear film can delay the inevitable, but is even softer that the clear on the CF, and will be hazy with wear and scratches in short order. It will likely leave a layer of glue when removed, that will probably take more effort to remove than a polish with some mild compound. In the end, it's a longboard, and scratches/wear are unavoidable marks of character and use. Know this and enjoy the board.

 

The clear film is actually a self healing film and exceptionally resistant to scratching. If you have a local Ziebart in your area check out the demo of the product. They usually have a display of the material on a car hood. Take a set of keys and rub vigorously across the covered area and it comes out unscathed. To remove just use a spray bottle filed with warm water and soap mixture. No residue is left using that method too remove. Also use that same spray mixture to apply it. I have this stuff on the hood, fenders , and mirrors of my pickup truck and it is flawless still after 7 years.

 

I am getting the board done with 3m film on Wednesday. Will post result and look after.

 

Have you ever removed a clear bra? I've had them on cars, and they didn't loosen at all when washed regularly with warm, soapy water. Seems like I remember hearing from someone that worked in the auto business that it had to be sanded off. Maybe newer products are different? Haven't used them in years, since newer low VOC paints have improved and are less prone to chipping. Anyway, hope it works as desired on the deck.

 

Not sure what material they were using but the 3m stuff can be removed be easily. No sanding required. That would be insane. I've also used this stuff on my ps vita and cell phones with the same results.

 

Don't know who told this stuff would come off with water, but they either don't know what they're talking about, or they're lying.

Also, a skate deck is not a car hood. It gets stomped on constantly with gritty shoes. Nothing is going to keep the top of a Carbon GT shiny for long. I doubt .8 mil film can be wrapped around the deck edges, where it is more likely to take damage than the bottom. If applying to the bottom, it's probably best to completely strip all parts off the deck for the cleanest install, and because as your warranty states, these boards don't like water, and that's what is used to install clear bra film. I'd make sure removing the power cables from the battery compartment doesn't void the warranty on the board. Is the battery easily removed? Better not get that wet.

They used CF in this application for its' physical properties primarily, not appearance. The seller in your link (Clear Defender), left this removal advice in the Q&A section on the same product page you linked. I'd wager it's not as easy as it sounds:

"Hello. The expected life span of the film is 5 years and normally does not need to be removed before then, however it can be removed at any time without causing damage to the vehicle's original factory paint. Once the film is removed it is no longer usable and will need to be replaced with new film.

When you have decided to remove the film here are some tips to help.

Placing the car in the warm sun for a few hours will help warm the film and the adhesive. Begin by pulling up a corner with your fingernail. Pull up the edge until you can get your fingers beneath the film. Once you can get a decent grip on the film, pull the film towards you at a shallow 10-15 degree angle. You want to pull/stretch the film off the car. You do NOT want to pull the film back over itself at a 180 degree angle. This will leave lots of adhesive residue behind. By stretching the film off the car at a shallow angle it releases from the painted surface in small increments.

We hope you find this information helpful. If you have any further questions, please let us know."

 

Way ahead of you. Trucks will be removed and electronics will be removed or covered. Covering will more than likely be enough for the electronics but they might be removed from board if I end up spraying with nano protech. You don't need to give it a bath just a misting spray will do. Doing so will allow you to position the film more easily. Check out youtube to see how it's done. I've used the spray bottle method to install. You don't need to use the spray bottle to remove but it does come off a lot more easily without leaving the residue. Even if it did leave residue, use goof off. Definitely don't use sandpaper. You are correct in stating that the carbon deck is not a car hood. Pretty obvious there, however do realize that they are using a clear coat finish just a they would on most vehicles so the application is the same. Paint sealer is fine but that won't last long at all. Grit, dirt , and sand will eventually haze the film, however the finish of the carbon deck won't be effected, which is correct me if I'm wrong the main point. Lastly, I'm not the only one who has used the stuff before. It has been suggested on Reddit, this forum and I believe the Facebook group as well. If you haven't used it yourself, I would suggest you give it a try before using the sealer. You might be surprised. I will be wrapping my board on Tuesday. Will upload a pic of the before and after.

 

Don't need to go to YT, as I've seen it applied in person. I'd be more interested in seeing pics after a few hundred miles of riding. Maybe Alex could chime in on whether any of this affects the warranty. The Boosted battery "venting" issues are reportedly due to water induced shorts in the electronics, and those boards are supposedly "water resistant". Your Evolve warranty addresses the need to limit exposure to water directly. Good luck with it, hope it works out., and let's see some pics after the project has some significant ride time on it.

 

You got it. Pics will be uploaded. Also to answer your questions on whether or not the battery is easy to remove there are videos on this very forum which show you how to remove it along with the electronics, motors, wheels, bearings, etc. Battery removal looks pretty straight forward which isn't too surprising since i think they designed the board to be modular. This forum is a treasure trove of information even though it is in its infancy. Thanks to Alex and Andy for setting this site up. As for your concern with warranty it's good to be cautious especially with a 2k board but I don't think putting a protective film will void it. Even with using a misting bottle to apply the film. Taking it for a swim in the lake might be a different story. Even in that scenario, if you let the board dry out long enough to the point that it works again my guess is that you will still be covered under warranty so long as it falls within the period. Unlike a cell phone which has a chemically reactive sticker I don't think this board had any such thing. Again correct me if I'm wrong there.

 

Submersing one of these machines might get interesting, in a bad way. Haven't done anything but charge & ride my GT bamboo-no need to do anything else at this point, so I haven't looked into the internals (beyond some pre-purchase online pics) or disassembly. Hopefully things will dry out enough to ride the GTC soon. Merry Christmas.